I've had several requests to explain how I bind my fabric postcards. So I'm finally getting around to posting a tutorial of my process.
You really aren't going to believe how simple this is!
But first, you need your postcard front design, a layer of stiff sew-in Peltex, a light to medium weight regular fusible interfacing and a backing to write your message on.
Step 1: Create your postcard front design This ice cream cone is paper pieced. When I raw edge applique a design, I use Wonder Under for fusing the pieces together. Lay your design on the Peltex. Pressing them together helps keep the layers together while you top stitch your design to the Peltex.
Now do ALL your stitching before you add the backing.
I use a paper backing because I really do mail my postcards and I like that it's easier to write on paper. I also like the security of knowing the stamp will remain on the postcard. However, you certainly can use fabric as your backing.
I use Post Card rubber stamps on my backings. You can also just use a marker and write "Post Card" or print the words on your printer. It's totally a personal preference. Then I fuse the wrong side of the paper with a piece of interfacing. This insures that your paper backing will not fall off after satin stitching the binding. (The sewing perforates the paper)
Now lightly glue stick around the outside edges of your backing and stick it to your completed card top., wrong sides together. Allow it to cool.
Choose your binding fabric and cut a 3/4" strip long enough for all four sides of your card. Press this strip in half lengthwise.
I usually cut the short lengths first, then the longer lengths after the short lengths are attached.
With a glue stick, run glue along the edge of the paper side or back side of the card. Be careful not to get the glue out farther than the binding will cover. It's just to hold the binding in place until it is sewn down.
Place the glued paper side down on one half of the binding. Repeat for the other short side.
On the front of your card, run glue along the edge being careful not to extend the glue farther than the binding will cover. Fold over the binding to the front and press it into the glue.
Cut binding lengths for the long edges and repeat the glue process first gluing to the back and then to the front.
When all the edges have binding glued on, just run the iron over both sides lightly to melt any little glue globs that might have happened. I know you're thinking this is going to gum up your needle...nope!...your needle will not have a clue that it was anywhere near glue.
Now we're ready to stitch that binding down permanent. With a straight stitch, back tack to just off the edge. Then stitch forward just to the inside edge of the binding.
Change your stitch to a zigzag. You'll have to find the best satin stitch length for your machine. I set my machine for a width of 3 and just a smidge longer than my preset satin stitch.
This now is the reason to fuse interfacing to the back of the paper backing. The satin stitch will perforate the paper. The interfacing assures you that your backing will still remain connected to the card.
When I get to the last edge, I pull my starting thread tails across the binding so that they will get stitched into the satin stitching.
When I get to the end, I sew several tiny straight stitches along the inside of the satin stitching to finish the sewing.
Keep the raw edges at the corners from fraying by adding a tiny bit of fray check along the edge. Not too much, mind you.
If the satin stitched binding edges leave little frays sticking out, trim them close.
You can view all my fabric postcards displayed as a set in my Flickr photostream here
Lots of people like to just satin stitch the raw edges of their layers together. I like the way the binding and contrasting satin stitch frame the little art work within. I'll be happy to answer any questions you may still have.
Good mail day to you,